Yves Camdeborde is all the rage and considered one of the best chefs in Paris nowadays. He has four eating venues in close proximity to one another, offering formal dining or French “tapas” style bites. We started our evening at L’Avant Comptoir de la Mer, enjoying some oysters that looked tempting on the window display. The tiny venue has other delicious seafood on offer as well. For our main meal we went to the restaurant next door, Le Comptoir du Relais, which offers a typical French a la carte menu and many daily options listed on a large board in the main room. There is a good variety of salads, meat based dishes and a large list of other selections. We enjoyed our cod “brandade”, the octopus with potatoes and beef on lentils, all perfectly cooked and very good. Also next door is L’Avant Comptoir, a type of French “tapas bar” where you can have some truffled eggs or gazpacho soup, delicious on warmer days. Just two blocks away, in St Germain’s covered market, you will find the newest of the chef’s endeavors, another “tapas bar” of kind, called L’Avant Comptoir du Marché. The menu centers around pork and there are salamis and chorizos boards, sausages and pork burgers. All of Camdeborde’s places are well demanded and can get quite crowded, yet only the main restaurant, Le Comptoir du Relais, takes reservations and for weekdays dining only. Our recommendation is that you go outside peak dining hours.